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Robe

1850-1900 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

This robe may have been made from various embroidered lengths intended to be tailored into a dress for an Empress, as the embroidery is quite intricate, making generous use of precious materials such as seed pearls and coral. The robe also bears the Twelve Imperial insignia, which was restricted for the exclusive use of the reigning emperor and his immediate family.

Although the dress materials were intended for an empress, it may not have finally been worn by an empress. Mismatched parts sewn into the robe suggest that it might have been sewn around the end of the Qing Dynasty, perhaps to be traded as an item of curiosity or exotic souvenir.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Satin weave silk; embroidery in coral beads, seed pearls, silk and metallic threads; lined with silk damask
Brief description
Festive robe for an empress (jifu), satin weave silk; embroidery in coral beads, seed pearls, silk and metallic threads, China, Qing dynasty, 1850-1900
Physical description
Empress's festive robe of yellow silk embroidered with coloured silks, gold thread, seed pearls and coral-beads in satin, stem, long and short and split stitches with Pekin knots and couched work. Horse-shoe cuffs and the neck and opening facings are edged with gold braid with a swastika fret pattern. The robe is lined with blue silk damask, with the eight Buddhist symbols.

The decoration consists of the usual nine five-clawed dragons, with further dragons on the additional sleeve bands embroidered in seed pearls and coral beads. The ground is filled with clouds, bats, double-xi (喜) characters (marriage symbol) embroidered in coral beads and the twelve imperial symbols. Waves, the eight precious things and standing water (li shui 立水) are embroidered around the hem.
Dimensions
  • Length: 144.7cm
  • Width: 199.5cm
Style
Object history
RF1967/1662

The robe may indeed never have been worn by a female member of the imperial family and it seems to be rather carelessly tailored.
Subject depicted
Summary
This robe may have been made from various embroidered lengths intended to be tailored into a dress for an Empress, as the embroidery is quite intricate, making generous use of precious materials such as seed pearls and coral. The robe also bears the Twelve Imperial insignia, which was restricted for the exclusive use of the reigning emperor and his immediate family.

Although the dress materials were intended for an empress, it may not have finally been worn by an empress. Mismatched parts sewn into the robe suggest that it might have been sewn around the end of the Qing Dynasty, perhaps to be traded as an item of curiosity or exotic souvenir.
Bibliographic references
  • Wilson, V., Chinese Dress, V&A, 1986, p.44, illus
  • Catalogue of the International Exhibition of Chinese Art, 1935-6, London : Royal Academy of Arts, 1935 3006
Collection
Accession number
T.253-1967

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Record createdDecember 15, 1999
Record URL
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