Shoe Buckle
ca. 1785-1795 (made)
Artist/Maker | |
Place of origin |
Gold or silver buckles for shoes were in fashion for most of the 18th century. They gave the finishing touches to elegant dress and were one of the few pieces of jewellery worn by men as well as women. Gentlemen wore matching shoe and knee buckles.
Making buckles became a highly skilled craft at which English silversmiths and jewellers excelled. Exquisitely wrought designs, glittering pastes and precious stones reflected the status of the wearer as well as the occasion. Cheaper and plainer versions were made of steel, brass and other metal alloys. By 1790 shoe buckles were falling out of use, except as part of ceremonial or court dress.
This buckle features bright-cutting – a method of engraving popular in the late 18th century whereby shallow curved grooves were cut with sides of varying steepness to create facets that give a reflective, sparkling effect.
Making buckles became a highly skilled craft at which English silversmiths and jewellers excelled. Exquisitely wrought designs, glittering pastes and precious stones reflected the status of the wearer as well as the occasion. Cheaper and plainer versions were made of steel, brass and other metal alloys. By 1790 shoe buckles were falling out of use, except as part of ceremonial or court dress.
This buckle features bright-cutting – a method of engraving popular in the late 18th century whereby shallow curved grooves were cut with sides of varying steepness to create facets that give a reflective, sparkling effect.
Object details
Categories | |
Object type | |
Materials and techniques | Silver, bright-cut, with steel |
Brief description | Silver with steel prongs, London, about 1785-1795, possibly by Joshua Cooper. |
Physical description | Shoe buckle silver with steel prongs. Oblong, decorated with an openwork rim of quatrefoils, enclosed between wavy borders and rosettes at each corner; bright-cut with pearled edges. |
Dimensions |
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Marks and inscriptions |
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Object history | Maker' s mark: IC. Prevously attributed to J.B. Cole, London but now thought to be Joshua Cooper, London (Ref. Grimwade, 1216). |
Subjects depicted | |
Summary | Gold or silver buckles for shoes were in fashion for most of the 18th century. They gave the finishing touches to elegant dress and were one of the few pieces of jewellery worn by men as well as women. Gentlemen wore matching shoe and knee buckles. Making buckles became a highly skilled craft at which English silversmiths and jewellers excelled. Exquisitely wrought designs, glittering pastes and precious stones reflected the status of the wearer as well as the occasion. Cheaper and plainer versions were made of steel, brass and other metal alloys. By 1790 shoe buckles were falling out of use, except as part of ceremonial or court dress. This buckle features bright-cutting – a method of engraving popular in the late 18th century whereby shallow curved grooves were cut with sides of varying steepness to create facets that give a reflective, sparkling effect. |
Collection | |
Accession number | M.39-1909 |
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Record created | June 9, 2005 |
Record URL |
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