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Otrante

Fashion Design
late 1911 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

This is one of a group of 157 sketches for dresses bound in volumes entitled Hiver 1911 (Winter 1911) from the Paris fashion house of Paquin. Founded by Jeanne Paquin (1869-1936) in 1891, Paquin was one of the most successful couture establishments at the turn of the nineteenth and twentieth centuries. Her clientele was very wide-ranging, including royalty and aristocracy from across Europe, wealthy Americans, and also actresses and singers and even courtesans such as the notorious La Belle Otero.

The vast majority of sketches show Paquin's gowns being modelled by pink-cheeked Caucasian models, which makes this design unusual in that the model is explicitly shown with a darker skintone. This is not an isolated incident, as a run of four designs for walking suits (E.2090 to 2093-1957) all show the same colouring. Many of the leading Paris couture houses provided Western fashions to an international clientele, and it is very possible that this group of designs (titled Vittoria, Zenda, Otrante, and Zaire) were drawn up for a specific client to offer an indication of how they would suit her colouring.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Titles
  • Otrante (assigned by artist)
  • Hiver 1911 (named collection)
Materials and techniques
watercolour drawing
Brief description
Jeanne Paquin, Hiver 1911. 'Otrante'. Golden-brown walking costume with dark brown fur muff and collar. Shown on a dark-skinned model.
1 of 157 fashion designs for Winter, 1911.
Physical description
'Otrante'. Golden-brown walking costume with dark brown fur muff and collar. Shown on a dark-skinned model.
1 of 157 dress designs for Winter 1911 bound in volumes
Dimensions
  • Page height: 45cm (approx)
  • Page width: 28.6cm (approx)
Credit line
Given by the House of Worth
Object history
The dark skintone of the model in this drawing is striking. The majority of Paquin's fashion sketches are shown upon pale-skinned, pink-cheeked Caucasian models, which makes this drawing especially interesting as one of a group of 18 designs interspersed through the volumes for Winter 1911 showing darker skintones on the fashionably dressed models.

The 18 designs for Winter 1911 showing this are: E.2090 to 2093; 2100, 2101, 2103, 2105, 2108, 2111, 2113 to 2116, 2119, 2121, 2122 and 2134-1957.

- Daniel Milford-Cottam, April 2014
Summary
This is one of a group of 157 sketches for dresses bound in volumes entitled Hiver 1911 (Winter 1911) from the Paris fashion house of Paquin. Founded by Jeanne Paquin (1869-1936) in 1891, Paquin was one of the most successful couture establishments at the turn of the nineteenth and twentieth centuries. Her clientele was very wide-ranging, including royalty and aristocracy from across Europe, wealthy Americans, and also actresses and singers and even courtesans such as the notorious La Belle Otero.

The vast majority of sketches show Paquin's gowns being modelled by pink-cheeked Caucasian models, which makes this design unusual in that the model is explicitly shown with a darker skintone. This is not an isolated incident, as a run of four designs for walking suits (E.2090 to 2093-1957) all show the same colouring. Many of the leading Paris couture houses provided Western fashions to an international clientele, and it is very possible that this group of designs (titled Vittoria, Zenda, Otrante, and Zaire) were drawn up for a specific client to offer an indication of how they would suit her colouring.
Bibliographic reference
Victoria and Albert Museum Department of Prints and Drawings and Department of Paintings Accessions 1957-1958 London: HMSO, 1964
Collection
Accession number
E.2092-1957

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Record createdJune 30, 2009
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